2013 LEAF STEREO INSTALL

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01. Need to run the power cable to the 12V battery - somebody said there's a grommet behind the glove box 02. RePo said that there's an unused grommet to the right of the washer fluid hose 03. Here's the grommet hole I used, I cut an X through it and push through my 4GA Power Cable 04. This is the view from inside the motor compartment 05. This picture shows my KnuKonceptz 4GA Power wire through the grommet 06. Here's the wire that I used
01. Need to run the power cable to the 12V battery - somebody said there's a grommet behind the glove box 02. RePo said that there's an unused grommet to the right of the washer fluid hose 03. Here's the grommet hole I used, I cut an X through it and push through my 4GA Power Cable 04. This is the view from inside the motor compartment 05. This picture shows my KnuKonceptz 4GA Power wire through the grommet 06. Here's the wire that I used
07. I ran the wire along the floor under the carpet and insulation 08. Lots of Interior Parts all over the place! 09. Here's the power line in the Trunk, I could not figure out how to remove the rear bottom seat cushions so I just used a snake to fish it underneath 10. This Green tab prevents you from pulling out the plastic covers over the pillars, I had to snip it 11. Snipped Green Tab, I think this is here to prevent the plastic trim from flying if the pillar airbag gets set off 12. The Stock Tweeter, 4OHMS, 40Watts MAX, not powerful enough for me!
07. I ran the wire along the floor under the carpet and insulation 08. Lots of Interior Parts all over the place! 09. Here's the power line in the Trunk, I could not figure out how to remove the rear bottom seat cushions so I just used a snake to fish it underneath 10. This Green tab prevents you from pulling out the plastic covers over the pillars, I had to snip it 11. Snipped Green Tab, I think this is here to prevent the plastic trim from flying if the pillar airbag gets set off 12. The Stock Tweeter, 4OHMS, 40Watts MAX, not powerful enough for me!
13. Here's the front of the tweeter 14. Tweeter Specs 15. New Tweeter next to old Tweeter 16. Back of Tweeters 17. I trimmed off those two ribs on the right 18. This thing came with the Polk Audio Tweeter, I am going to cut it down and use it to secure the new Tweeter
13. Here's the front of the tweeter 14. Tweeter Specs 15. New Tweeter next to old Tweeter 16. Back of Tweeters 17. I trimmed off those two ribs on the right 18. This thing came with the Polk Audio Tweeter, I am going to cut it down and use it to secure the new Tweeter
19. I used a coping saw to trim it down as shown 20. I used Crazy Glue to glue that piece of plastic I created and now I can use the original screw to attach the New tweeter! 21. Should work perfect after I trim down those two ribs of plastic by the screw hole 22. Front side of Polk MM Tweeter with new mounting tab 23. Works Perfect! 24. Time to remove the door panels, If you pull back on the door handle like you are opening your door you'll see a little square hole at bottom toward the front of the Leaf
19. I used a coping saw to trim it down as shown 20. I used Crazy Glue to glue that piece of plastic I created and now I can use the original screw to attach the New tweeter! 21. Should work perfect after I trim down those two ribs of plastic by the screw hole 22. Front side of Polk MM Tweeter with new mounting tab 23. Works Perfect! 24. Time to remove the door panels, If you pull back on the door handle like you are opening your door you'll see a little square hole at bottom toward the front of the Leaf
25. Put the tip of your flat head screwdriver in the slot at the bottom left, that panel will pop right out 26. Remove the window switches and you'll see this bolt, unscrew it 27. From the bottom use your fingers to pry off the Door Panel, it'll just pop straight out 28. You'll need to unscrew 3 screws to remove the interior door handle so that you can work on the door and set aside the panel 29. Here is the stock speaker, remove it and toss it 30. There is an extreme difference in the Mass and weight of the speakers
25. Put the tip of your flat head screwdriver in the slot at the bottom left, that panel will pop right out 26. Remove the window switches and you'll see this bolt, unscrew it 27. From the bottom use your fingers to pry off the Door Panel, it'll just pop straight out 28. You'll need to unscrew 3 screws to remove the interior door handle so that you can work on the door and set aside the panel 29. Here is the stock speaker, remove it and toss it 30. There is an extreme difference in the Mass and weight of the speakers
31. The Polks come with that universial mounting bracket that worked very well, I just had to drill out the holes a bit so they could accept the 3 stock screws 32. I decided to run my own NEW cables for each new Driver and Tweeter, I am not using any stock wires 33. So I had to drill a hole for my new speaker cables 34. You could barely see the drill bit just about to break through with this picture 35. there is the drill bit 36. I stuck duct tape to the drill bit so that it would not cut any existing wires in the car while I was drilling the new holes
31. The Polks come with that universial mounting bracket that worked very well, I just had to drill out the holes a bit so they could accept the 3 stock screws 32. I decided to run my own NEW cables for each new Driver and Tweeter, I am not using any stock wires 33. So I had to drill a hole for my new speaker cables 34. You could barely see the drill bit just about to break through with this picture 35. there is the drill bit 36. I stuck duct tape to the drill bit so that it would not cut any existing wires in the car while I was drilling the new holes
37. There's the hole that I drilled from the inside, While I was drilling I was using my other hand to push any existing wires out of the way of the drill bit 38. I started to add Dynamat 39. I added 3 SQFT to each door, to the inside of the exterior skin and interior skin as well 40. Almost done with Dynamat 41. New Driver Mounted 42. I think the clearance should be OK, I could not test the windows because I disconnected the 12V battery before I started the job
37. There's the hole that I drilled from the inside, While I was drilling I was using my other hand to push any existing wires out of the way of the drill bit 38. I started to add Dynamat 39. I added 3 SQFT to each door, to the inside of the exterior skin and interior skin as well 40. Almost done with Dynamat 41. New Driver Mounted 42. I think the clearance should be OK, I could not test the windows because I disconnected the 12V battery before I started the job
43. I mounted the Left crossover to the left of the steering column and to the right of the 2013 parking brake 44. The right crossover was mounted to the right side of some device that's to the right of the glove box 45. Day Two, Starting on the rear doors 46. The rear doors are much easier to run the speaker wires through the existing flexible connector 47. That was pretty easy, fold back the rubber and squeeze the flexible ribs together to make it easier to push the speaker cable through 48. I will zip tie this Polk MM crossover onto the bottom frame inside the back doors
43. I mounted the Left crossover to the left of the steering column and to the right of the 2013 parking brake 44. The right crossover was mounted to the right side of some device that's to the right of the glove box 45. Day Two, Starting on the rear doors 46. The rear doors are much easier to run the speaker wires through the existing flexible connector 47. That was pretty easy, fold back the rubber and squeeze the flexible ribs together to make it easier to push the speaker cable through 48. I will zip tie this Polk MM crossover onto the bottom frame inside the back doors
49. I snipped off the rear door speaker cables, I will extend these wires to the trunk and use them as the inputs to the AudioControl LC2i 50. Another shot of the rear speaker cable, Driver Side Rear - Violet is POS - Light Green is NEG 51. Here's a shot of the crossover zipped tied to a crossbar inside the rear doors 52. Another shot inside rear door, how I zip tied the wires so that the window does not interfere 53. Mounting of the Polk Audio MM spacers 54. Speaker mounted, time to put this door back together and move to the next door
49. I snipped off the rear door speaker cables, I will extend these wires to the trunk and use them as the inputs to the AudioControl LC2i 50. Another shot of the rear speaker cable, Driver Side Rear - Violet is POS - Light Green is NEG 51. Here's a shot of the crossover zipped tied to a crossbar inside the rear doors 52. Another shot inside rear door, how I zip tied the wires so that the window does not interfere 53. Mounting of the Polk Audio MM spacers 54. Speaker mounted, time to put this door back together and move to the next door
55. Passenger Side speaker cables, Pink is NEG, Light Green is POS, These will be used as Input into the AudioControl LC2i 56. I used just about 3SQ FT of Dynamat Extreme at each door. I need more for the Trunk now 57. On the last door one of these fell out!, I got through all the other with none that fell out, Oh Well, It was almost perfect 58. This is the VOID under the armrest!!!, Why would Nissan leave so much space unused, I could have used the storage space, The bass Control Knob is mounted in the Armrest 59. This is the Mess in the Trunk,Need to figure this all Out! 60. This is basically where I will mount all the Gear, This may change, I may stand the amps vertically to use less floor space
55. Passenger Side speaker cables, Pink is NEG, Light Green is POS, These will be used as Input into the AudioControl LC2i 56. I used just about 3SQ FT of Dynamat Extreme at each door. I need more for the Trunk now 57. On the last door one of these fell out!, I got through all the other with none that fell out, Oh Well, It was almost perfect 58. This is the VOID under the armrest!!!, Why would Nissan leave so much space unused, I could have used the storage space, The bass Control Knob is mounted in the Armrest 59. This is the Mess in the Trunk,Need to figure this all Out! 60. This is basically where I will mount all the Gear, This may change, I may stand the amps vertically to use less floor space
61. I mounted all the Amps and gear on a workbench outside of the trunk first 62. This is where I hooked up the NEG Wire, I Ground off the paint 63. Here is the Ground wire Connected 64. This is the layout so far, That board will be covered in black fabric and the sub may be turned 90 degrees 65. Those white RCA Cable are temporary, I am ordering RCA cables made to length 66. I may tilt the board up as shown so that it'll take less floor space and I'll put the Sub right up next to the board
61. I mounted all the Amps and gear on a workbench outside of the trunk first 62. This is where I hooked up the NEG Wire, I Ground off the paint 63. Here is the Ground wire Connected 64. This is the layout so far, That board will be covered in black fabric and the sub may be turned 90 degrees 65. Those white RCA Cable are temporary, I am ordering RCA cables made to length 66. I may tilt the board up as shown so that it'll take less floor space and I'll put the Sub right up next to the board
67. Like This, This Will take up less room and allow more use of the Trunk. I have to test if I like the Bass this way
67. Like This, This Will take up less room and allow more use of the Trunk. I have to test if I like the Bass this way


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